This blog is dedicated to Martin Verhage and to the memory of his exploits during the Great War, WWI. It details the trip taken in the fall of 2010 by his daughter Marlene Verhage DeVries and two of his grandchildren, John H Bratt and Mary Ragagni, son and daughter of Harvey Bratt and Fran Verhage Bratt. It's important to remember that this trip would never have happened except for the involvement of John H Bratt over the last few years. John's involvement in studying National Archive records, journals, logs and maps, his endless pouring over Google Earth road maps and locations and his correspondence with people in the States and in Europe was tireless. Thank you John H Bratt. Your tireless effort made for a most wonderful and memorable trip, a trip that not many folks will travel in their lifetime. We will never forget the fall of 2010.
"When you remember me, it means you have carried something of who I am with you, that I have left some mark of who I am on who you are. It means that you can summon me back to your mind even though countless years and miles may stand between us. It means that if we meet again, you will know me. It means that even after I die, you can still see my face and hear my voice and speak to me in your heart."
— Frederick Buechner
The Thin Places
Our pastor Jack Roeda has used the term "The Thin Places" in his sermons. What is a thin place? To discern the difference between an ordinary place and a thin place, one must use a spiritual perspective. In simple terms a ‘thin place’ is a place where the veil between this world and the other world is thin, the other world is more near. This meaning assumes the perceiver senses the existence of a world beyond what we know through our five senses. Since the times of ancient civilization the fascination with the "other world" has occupied human minds. A thin place is a place where the connection to that other world seems effortless, and ephemeral signs of its existence are almost palpable. This is what we experienced in Northern France. Walking the roads and pathways, tramping through woods and farmlands, meeting farmers and pub patrons, hunters and cemetary superintendants. The stories and experiences we had are memorable. The pictures reveal only a small portion of the experience.
St Mihiel Offensive - 11 October 2010
Our first day. The first three days we are ensconsed in the region where the St Mihiel offensive occurred. Our aim is to walk the fields, the lanes, the woods and the roads where Martin walked. Martin was in the 354th regiment, 89th division, Company I. John's research into National Archives and personal logs and such have helped him to determine where Martins group was and where they spent a good share of their time.
Everyone met at the Frankfort airport and we all proceeded to head southwesterly towards the Northern part of France where we would begin our journey on The Route du Martin. We arrived in Jaulny, France and unloaded our suitcases into rooms in an 11th century castle. Every morning we were welcomed in the dining room for breakfast. There were paintings and murals adorning the walls. There were views to the west where an occasional TGV would speed past in the distance. On the highboy there were Roman coins found in the vicinity. In the adjoining room were WWI German military helmets, Napoleon era hats, crossbows, suits of armor, rifles, flintlock handguns, spears and other memorabilia. All memorabilia was in the open and we even donned helmets and brandished swords. Anna was most gracious and eager to please. She is a fifth generation owner of the castle. The breakfasts were great and our only constraint during our stay was to remember to close the gate which was operated by a remote control.
Everyone met at the Frankfort airport and we all proceeded to head southwesterly towards the Northern part of France where we would begin our journey on The Route du Martin. We arrived in Jaulny, France and unloaded our suitcases into rooms in an 11th century castle. Every morning we were welcomed in the dining room for breakfast. There were paintings and murals adorning the walls. There were views to the west where an occasional TGV would speed past in the distance. On the highboy there were Roman coins found in the vicinity. In the adjoining room were WWI German military helmets, Napoleon era hats, crossbows, suits of armor, rifles, flintlock handguns, spears and other memorabilia. All memorabilia was in the open and we even donned helmets and brandished swords. Anna was most gracious and eager to please. She is a fifth generation owner of the castle. The breakfasts were great and our only constraint during our stay was to remember to close the gate which was operated by a remote control.
The property is owned and operated by Anna and Hughes, husband and wife. Anna spoke the English and Hughes offered the tour of the castle rooms. John and I even ventured down into the bowels of the main building where we found more interesting things like a dungeon and what appeared to be bone fragments.
The accomodations were most delightful. There was a fireplace in each of our rooms. The bathrooms were well equipped and the beds very comfortable. If you wish to visit their website you can find it at ... http://chateaudejaulny.free.fr/ ... check it out.
After settling in we proceed to explore the area. Bunkers, trenches and villages are explored to prepare for our assault that we will begin tomorrow. We take preliminary pictures and drive country roads in the beautiful evening light of the setting sun. Our first evening meal is in a small village. We take our meal in an auberge with lots of activity. Our meals were delicious. We have found a wonderful place to dine, not like our last journey.
St Mihiel Offensive - 12 October 2010
Our day begins at the breakfast table. We map out our strategy for the first day of our assault. We will begin our journey in the village of Flirey where we begin by looking for the vestiges of a railroad bridge. We encounter an old French farmer and speak with him at length but our search for the bridge is fruitless. But not to be discouraged. We head for Gas Hollow where the walking begins. Our plan is to drop off Marlene, John and Mary at the beginning of each portion of the tour and Paul will drive to the destination and proceed to walk backwards where hopefully he will meet them a little more than half of the way to the destination. The destination is the bombed out church where Paul parks the car and makes his way over a hill where he sees the three musketeers marching up a long and gradual slope. All four then visit the old church and break for lunch.
Lunch is taken in a small hotel where we find fantastic vegetable soup and homemade bread. John also encounters two gentlemen at lunch and engages them in conversation. They are amazed and thrilled by our exploits. We then visit the new church and let our lunch settle in.
John has seen the encounter and assumes the approaching vehicle is being driven by an authority set on arresting them for collecting memorabilia. The memorabilia is quickly dispoed of and the farmer arrives. The conversation ensues and friendship is established. The farmer is impressed and leaves just after Paul arrives. The loot is retrieved and the three set off in yet another direction, the Robert Mesnil Farm. John locates a place for Paul to park the car and Paul heads off in the black Ford Modelo (sp), a brand new model becomming dirtier with each portion of the assault.
Lunch is taken in a small hotel where we find fantastic vegetable soup and homemade bread. John also encounters two gentlemen at lunch and engages them in conversation. They are amazed and thrilled by our exploits. We then visit the new church and let our lunch settle in.
Then we make preparations for the second phase of our assault. Beginning where we left off, Paul drives to a location where he is told to go. He parks the car, begins his journey across a farm field and sees the three Magi a great distance away. They disappear behind a woods and appear to be making their way around the woods. So Paul marches around the woods well expecting to see them as they appear on the other side of the wooded area. But alas, it is not to be. So for approximately an hour he traverses back and forth waiting for the three to appear on either side on in the middle of the woods.
What he does not find until later is that they decided to walk further north where they spot a road that parallels another wooded area. They can see Paul but he can't see them because he is not looking in that direction since his concentration is on the woods. After a time he does hear Marlene and heads back to the parked car. Upon arrival he encounters a farmer who he attempts to engage in conversation. With hand waving and limited French, Paul is able to help the farmer identify the trio at a great distance away. The farmer is most kind but he evidently wants to know what is happening in his field. He drives off to meet John, Marlene and Mary.
John has seen the encounter and assumes the approaching vehicle is being driven by an authority set on arresting them for collecting memorabilia. The memorabilia is quickly dispoed of and the farmer arrives. The conversation ensues and friendship is established. The farmer is impressed and leaves just after Paul arrives. The loot is retrieved and the three set off in yet another direction, the Robert Mesnil Farm. John locates a place for Paul to park the car and Paul heads off in the black Ford Modelo (sp), a brand new model becomming dirtier with each portion of the assault.
Paul heads past The Ansoncourt Farm and ends his journey at the Robert Mesnil farm. The four travellers are reunited. John wants to march on. He issues an order to head for Euvezin. The meeting point is on the outskirts in a farm field. The four again meet and John again issues further orders to proceed to the town of Euvezin. Marlene and Paul head off in the car for the village and Mary and John hoof it towards the village. The four again reunite and the journey for the second day of the St Mihiel assault ends.
The four head for Jaulny and enjoy hors d'ouevres with a bit of wine. On the way back to town we stop for provisions in Bouillonville ... cheese, crackers, wine and wonder of wonders ... a small pizza wagon outside provides us with a couple of pizzas to enjoy back at the camp. Our day ends with a fire provided by Anna and we discuss plans for the next day. Marlene arranges with Anna to provide us with a meal tomorrow evening.
St Mihiel Offensive - 13 October 2010
Our day again begins at the breakfast table. We will pick up where we left off yesterday, at Euvezin. 
We will march to Bouillonville, and then press on the the end, Xammes. Maps are laid out and Paul will drop the three off in Euvezin and head for Bouillonville where he again will park the car and head on the trail towards the approaching trio. Across the field appear the three with Marlene holding a riding crop she found on the trail. The three make their way to the village and head for the train trestle where Martin slept one evening. We also visited the church and tried to avoid the large angry dog, thankfully behind a fence.
We will march to Bouillonville, and then press on the the end, Xammes. Maps are laid out and Paul will drop the three off in Euvezin and head for Bouillonville where he again will park the car and head on the trail towards the approaching trio. Across the field appear the three with Marlene holding a riding crop she found on the trail. The three make their way to the village and head for the train trestle where Martin slept one evening. We also visited the church and tried to avoid the large angry dog, thankfully behind a fence.
Today we head to Bruley for lunch. We had lunch here 3 years ago and liked it so well we made a concerted effort to return. John is seen here anxiously awaiting his sanglier cassolette. 
We purchased some wine for our evening meal. Anna recommended some white wine and we agreed.
During our visit, we toured a bit of the area. We revisited the site where a large ammo dump had been bombed. We also visited the wooded lot where the 89th was ensconsed during the huge fire that erupted when the ammo dump was hit.
After our break for lunch we headed back and picked up the trail next to the bridge. Paul headed for a spot on the map and walked backward until he again was reunited with the other three. The four met at the car and Paul again proceed to drive to Xammes where he parked at the church.
After reuniting again, the four explored the countryside and hiked a good bit of the surrounding area. TGV's passed as we made our way across the fields. When we left, we headed out in the opposite direction to avoid a farmer with a harvesting machine that appeared to be waiting for us.
We arrived home and probably had hors d'ouevres. Dinner was at seven and we headed for the dining room. The table was set. We sat down and Anna appeared with two large beautiful quiches. In addition there was a marvelous salad. Our wine purchase paired well with the meal. And the coup d'etat ... dessert was a glorious apple tarte tatin. What a marvelous meal!
Meuse Argonne - 14 October 2010
Caption ... John ... "I'm trying to put as much distance between me and the herd of sanglier that was spotted earlier this morning".
The two people in the photo with John are Jean-Paul DeVries and his wife. They run a small WWI museum in Romagne. You can visit their website at ... http://www.romagne14-18.com/ ... check it out.
Onward we press towards Romagne and have a reunion with Jean-Paul DeVries and his wife. We discuss plans and he has already arranged with the mayor of several small villages to OK our passing through farmlands and fields. We have ourselves a spot of tea and head for the bunker locations. We are successful and find two bunkers. Photographs are taken and we find an unexploded ordnance laying at the opening of the second bunker. The authorities have not kept up with requests for ordnance disposal and many of the finds are left for future disposal.
The two people in the photo with John are Jean-Paul DeVries and his wife. They run a small WWI museum in Romagne. You can visit their website at ... http://www.romagne14-18.com/ ... check it out.
Today we pack up our belongings and head for the Meuse Argonne area where we will spend three days exploring this portion of Martins experience. As we leave, I ask Anna for the bill for our room. She disappears and returns with the bill for three nights lodging. But there is no item for the dinner she prepared for us the evening before. I mention this and she replies in French. Seeing the puzzled look on my face she simply states ... "In English it's called a gift". What a marvelous treat. This place is truly awesome! As Napoleon once said ... "I shall return!"
Not to disappoint Little Feller we head for the St Mihiel cemetary. The person in charge gave us a tour and promised to stay in touch. The morning was very foggy which gave the cemetery an ominous feel. The sun coming through the clouds cast shadows of the crosses which were lined up like soldiers in formation. It was a very somber visit.
Not to disappoint Little Feller we head for the St Mihiel cemetary. The person in charge gave us a tour and promised to stay in touch. The morning was very foggy which gave the cemetery an ominous feel. The sun coming through the clouds cast shadows of the crosses which were lined up like soldiers in formation. It was a very somber visit.
We load up the car and head west. On the outskirts of Verdun we load up with some provisions and items for a luncheon. Cora and Lidl are our choices for provisions. We continue in the car and arrive in Varennes for lunch in the church yard. It's a beautiful day and we enjoy our repast.
Onward we press towards Romagne and have a reunion with Jean-Paul DeVries and his wife. We discuss plans and he has already arranged with the mayor of several small villages to OK our passing through farmlands and fields. We have ourselves a spot of tea and head for the bunker locations. We are successful and find two bunkers. Photographs are taken and we find an unexploded ordnance laying at the opening of the second bunker. The authorities have not kept up with requests for ordnance disposal and many of the finds are left for future disposal.
We finish up our bunker exploration and head for a spot where a West Michigan native took an embattled hill with only seven others helping him. John has actually contacted his son who lives in Rockford. Harvey has stopped by to say hello and we are visiting the location where his father earned a medal for his bravery. We have come to visit, take pictures and locate any sort of momento that we can deliver to Rockford on our return.
The sun is beginning to sink and we turn our car in the direction of LesIslettes where we have arranged for a b&b for 3 nights. We arrive, it appears noone is home but after some persistence we manage to gain entrance. The house is an 18th century home and we are staying on the 3rd floor in what used to be an attic. The space has been wonderfully finished off into two bedrooms ... large and primo bathroom facilities.
WE finish unloading and head for St Menehold where we plan to eat at the Cheval Blanc. John of course orders steak frites. Marlene and I order two different pastas which are delicious. Mary orders slumguleon and thouroughly enjoys every bite.
We finish ours meals and head back to the ranch for a good nights sleep.
Meuse Argonne - 15 October 2010
Today's highlight is early on in the morning. We scout out a few spots, specifically the La D'huy farm. Even though we do have permission, we make the decision not to traverse this farm due to dogs and such. We head down a road on the other side of a hill. We were here 3 years ago and found a bumper crop of shell, shrapnel and assorted other war vestiges. We were finding more and continued walking. As we made our way into this area we passed several tractors busy in the fields. I'm sure these tractors were equipped with cell phones. Suddenly over the hill there appeared a Jeep headed in our direction. The Jeep stopped, the passenger window was lowered and Marlene bravely stuck her head in and started talking. It turns out this fellows name was Jean Pierre and he owned the land. We all had a lengthy discussion (in French) and found out a bit of information. We thanked him for talking with us and for being so kind. He immediately put up his hands and said no! And with a tear in his eye, he told us that he is most thnkful for what the United Sates had done for his country. Amazing. We parted ways and Mary and John headed into the woods looking for relics. About 15 minutes later the Jeep reappeared, but from a different direction. The Jeep pulled up, down went the drivers window and Jean Pierre handed us a bottle of Champagne and a bottle of wine complete with a stack of small plastic glasses. He exclaimed ... "Not from California!" Jean Pierre told Marlene to toast her father later that evening and away he drove.
Our trip continues. We drive to Remonville and stop at the church. We break out the provisions and enjoy the repast. Then The Three Magi head out of town where Paul will meet them as they enter the woods. The four are again reacquainted and a flurry of activity occurs in the woods. The three continue to press on actually through the woods where Martin and his group continued their forward assault. Paul meets them later on at the termination of the woods and promises to meet them in Barricourt. The three head kitty wampus across the field but are prevented from continuing due to some obstacles. Paul continues to circle around the village and raises suspicions as to his purpose for visiting. Once the three arrive, contact is made with suspicious villagers and all is made right.
We take our dinner in Clermont en Argonne at a little spot where the waitress is a little bit on the frenetic side and it appears that she has suffered some abuse. The meal is however good and we wend our way back to the B&B.
Meuse Argonne - 16 October 2010
The order of the pictures in this part is a little screwed up. In my verbage I will try to keep stories and pictures together. 
"Here is the world. Beautiful and terrible things will happen. Don't be afraid."
— Frederick Buechner
Today we head out from Les Islettes and our first stop is in Clermont en Argonne looking for gasoline. None to be found ... strike. We ascend the stairs at the Eglise and enter to sanctuary to the strains of an organ. The view from this high is quite spectacular. The associated picture is that of red rooftops.
We head out towards the north and the village of Vauquois, the lost city. If you visit the associated website you will learn the magnitude of explosives that the Germans used to obliterate this village ... http://www.worldwar1.com/france/vacquois.htm . The Germans were all prepared to stay the course. The fighting was a standoff. The Germans had a lot of comforts of home. Some bunkers even had pianos. Until the US got involved, the Germans and French had been entrenched for three years. Small raids but stay the course. When Pershing arrived, his strategy was to keep moving. Move the troops and don't stop long.
The next stop today was in Romagne and the largest military cemetery in Europe. John met Mr Rivers, the superintendant, and even received a medal of the Sgt York memorial that had only recently been constructed. I only wish I had taken a picture of John and Mr Rivers. I believe that Mr Rivers was quite impressed with the knowledge that John had amassed. He later found us visiting another part of the cemetary and presented John with a dog tag that had been part of the cemetery collection. I believe John may be trying to put that information together to see that it gets to a rightful decendant.
Onward and forward. Keep the trrops moving. We land in Dun sur Meuse for lunch. We tour the churchyard and cemetary. Then we head out for the Heights of Barricourt. On the way we visit a church from the 11th century. Beautiful. Soon we arrive at the spot where Martin was when the Armistice was signed. The three travellers can be seen raising a glass in celebration of the signing of the peace.
Later in the evening we return to the Cheval Blanc for a lovely dinner. It's a good place to go. But not before our B&B hostess has us in her parlor for hors d'ouevres with champagne. Olives, cheese, biscuits that "drink" the champagne and other assorted wonderful things to prepare us for dinner. She is most charming and we enjoy talking with her. At the Cheval Blanc Marlene and I have the same dinners as two nights ago ... except I have what she had and she has what I had. One was pasta primavera and pasta Bolognese. A demi pichet of red wine and a good salad.
"Here is the world. Beautiful and terrible things will happen. Don't be afraid."
— Frederick Buechner
Trier Bound - 17 October 2010
La Chasse - John loves to communicate with the locals, especially those engaged in La Chasse. John speaks fluent Spanish but left alone with a group of hunter's, he has everyone smiling within 15 seconds. Two days ago, he even had the lead hunter sounding his hunting horn. 
Today we arise to a wonderful breakfast. We exchange fond farewell to our B&B host. She has been great. We head for the north, with Belgium in mind. But before we head for Belgium with reckless abandon, John directs us to head for the Sgt York memorial. We arrive at the village and make our way to the entrance. At the entrance we encounter a sign that there is hunting going on and that it would not be wise to proceed. We even encounter a couple of hunter's and they warn us of the danger. We withdraw, but not without John's attempt to figure out a better way. We found another group of hunters in the middle of the village and John immediately jumped from the car and began discussing the dangers of la Chasse. This group assures John that there is little danger, however Mary feels differently and the group always honors the wishes of those feeling uneasiness. We make a stop in a small village where they are pressing apples in the city square. Lots of excitement and activity.
We cross the border into Belgium and soon stop for lunch at a restaurant that specializes in pizza and salads. Delicious meal. We head in an easterly direction and enter Luxembourg where we are greeted with the least expensive gas we have purchased on the entire trip.
We cross the Rhine River into Germany and head for Trier. It's the oldest city in Germany. It's also the city with the most Roman ruins of any city outside of Italy. We soon find our lodging and empty our car of our belongings in anticipation of repacking for the flight home.
We head out in search of adventure and of sustinence. It's a beautiful city. Lots of people walking the street that has been shut off to traffic. We visit the Black Portal, of of four entrances into the original Roman city. Beautiful shops, restaurants with outdoor seating that provide you with blankets. John finds a quaint little spot where he orders a dish he has waited for the entire trip. I am the only one who orders differently and am really the only one satisfied with the dinner. I had roast chicken. We pass by The Dom (See http://www.sacred-destinations.com/germany/trier-cathedral ), the Roman baths and the Constantinian cathedral built in 300 AD (See http://www.sacred-destinations.com/germany/trier-aula-palatina ).
Frankfort Bound - 19 October 2010
Got up and had coffee from the ESSO next door. Put ourselves into the car and headed for Frankfort. Stopped for coffee at the McDonald's in Ramstein. Arrived in Frankfort. I told John that I had a seat that really was not good for me so he said ... give me your ticket and went inside while I waited outside in the car. Five minutes later he came back out and had arranged for bulkhead seats. Dropped Marlene and Mary off at DEPARTURES with all the baggage. We went to fill up the car and drop it off at the rental place. If you ever rent a car, rent it from Enterprise. They were great. Kind, helpful, recommended ways to lessen our bill, etc. Met Mary and Marlene under the escalator. We finished off all our food including a bottle of wine. I think John used the bottle of Cidre to bribe the ticket lady who changed our seats. Got through security and waited to go home. Lots of memories.
A Little Slideshow
Here's a little slideshow of the highlights of the trip. I may add more later on but for now this should suffice. I hope you enjoyed reading this blog and hopefully you will have been given a little insight into the experience of Martin Verhage and the year he spent over in Europe on the fighting lines and as part of the American occupation of Germany.
"You can kiss your family and friends good-bye and put miles between you, but at the same time you carry them with you in your heart, your mind, your stomach, because you do not just live in a world but a world lives in you"
— Frederick Buechner
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